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How to mount a front axle
How to install a jackshaft setup
How to do direct steering
How to build a clutch
Small brake caliper
12" steering wheel
920 /930 bearing
700 Peerless input shaft seal
How to do wiring
IMOW Pulleys
How to do belt guides
Starter push button
Tethered kill switch
Basic wiring kit
Electrical Parts
USLMRA
ARC flywheel 6609
ARC Flywheel 6611
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700 tranny kit
Battery Terminal Covers
Large cable end cover
How to remove a pulley
Red V Belts
Throttle kit
ARC Rods
ARC Brass Syncro substitute weights
Starters and Parts
Rod end
Female rod end
Headgasket
Wheels and hubs
Noram Clutch
Centrifugal Clutch
700 tranny kit 1 1/4" setup
Complete Kits
4 on 4 Steel wheels
MCP fluid brake system
MCP master cylinder rebuild kit
Rebuild kit for MCP caliper
MCP brake pads
Steel Front Wheel
700 tranny rebuild kit
How to install a jackshaft setup

This is a page that will help you understand how to install a jackshaft setup.This how I did this in a Murray lawnmower and is for reference only. I know that this way worked very well with little or no trouble.If you still don't under stand feel free to call me and ask any questions. I will be more than happy to answer any question and if I don't know I can probably put you on to someone that can answer you.

You need a Murray Deck spindle housing Murray part number 55962, a 5/8” dia.3/16 keyway shaft, two 5/8” shaft locks, 3/8” thick plate of aluminum or ¼” thick plate of steel, and a way to cut holes and a notch in your frame

When locating your jackshaft setup try to get, as close to the middle (front to back) of the frame as possible,this will let your belts be close to the same size. If you get it to close to the rear axle and your belt is too short you will have problems with belt wear and rollover. A chain has been used with some success but you have to tighten the tension sprocket extremely tight. You will use a belt tension idler pulley like the clutch for ease of changing belts. Cut a hole just big enough for the Murray spindle housing to fit flush with the bottom of the frame. Mark and drill holes to mount your housing, after drilling your frame place your plate on top and mark holes to be drilled and drill holes in plate.

After drilling the plate mount your housing and plate together (housing on the top of the frame and plate on top of the frame.

You can build a belt tensioner out of 1 ½” by ¼” flat steel or use an old clutch assembly. If you use flat steel cut 2 pieces about 6” long or according to what space you are going to have. Bend a joggle in each piece about ½” high as in you can do this in a vice with a torch and a hammer or if you know someone with a press brake that can bend it that’s even better. After bending drill a hole the size of the pin or bolt the tensioner will turn on thru both pieces. Drill a hole in one piece to fit your pulley or sprocket if you are using chain. Drill a hole in the other to fit your J-bolt. Put a bolt thru the 2 pieces and make sure both ends a bent up as in make them at a right angle. And weld them together. Add your pulley, mount it to the frame put your J-bolt in the other end and see where you can weld your piece of angle so it doesn’t get in the way of the belt. Pull the pulley up tight against the belt hand tight the nut on the J-bolt then tighten it with a socket or wrench until the belt is as tight as possible and will still turn easy. It is possible to get it to tight. This works on chain too.

you can right click on the drawings and save them and you can also copy and paste the text to word. Or send me a self address stamped envelope and $1 for ink and paper and I will send you a copy.